Summer 2023 menswear trends
The best-dressed guys are the guys who get ahead. And with Spring/Summer 2023 on the horizon (thank God), those guys have already started incorporating the main trends from Paris, Milan, London and New York into their wardrobes. And with all those big runway drops trickling into stores as speak, now is the perfect time.
From going shirtless under your office wear, sleeveless in the summer sun to the ever-increasing expanse of baggier, billowing jeans and sexed-up short shorts, we’ve got you covered (well, apart from your arms, but that's Spring/Summer baby!)
Justin Bieber's was pushing baggy jeans for the best part of 2022, as was Pete Davidson. Now, the biggest brands are going bigger still on billowing denim. From floor-skimming, roomy jeans at Louis Vuitton to denim that sits tighter at the thigh and loose and lofty at the hems (JW Anderson), jeans are only going to get bigger for 2023. The best bit? They're mad, mad, mad comfy.
Perhaps inspired by the recent surge in quality sci-fi films (Dune, Moonfall, The Adam Project et al) – or maybe our favourite designers just got together to stream some classic Star Trek episodes – high-shine galactic metallics have been given plenty of air time on the catwalk. British designer Bianca Saunders presented boxy suiting in eye-catching silver lamé (shoes to match), Etro's shirting was floaty and dazzling, while Erdem presented sleeveless tops embellished with sparkling sequins and paired up trousers.
Remember when Kanye West went shirtless under his Louis Vuitton suit at the Miami wedding of 2 Chainz and Kesha Ward? Well, while the Internet might've roasted him as it always does, but designers cottoned on and made it next season's big trend.
Tiger of Sweden presented slim-fit suiting with nothing underneath, burgeoning London-based designer Ahluwalia made the case for waistcoats worn with bare chests, while Mrs Donatella Versace sent models strutting down the catwalk in gaudy, baroque-printed suits, with plenty of chest flesh flashing. Elsewhere Fendi proposed spezzatos (broken suits) sans shirts and plenty of ab air time, Saint Laurent's suits had deliberately wide lapels to ensure pecs were given their moment, as were McQueen's, while Dolce and Gabbana flashed a little upper torso skin.
While the workplace might've largely ditched the neck tie – here at GQ we aren't required to wear them, while City giants like JP Morgan also no longer have strict dress codes – the menswear shows were awash with them. More fashion than inner city banker, Kenzo and Nigo presented them with matching collegiate striped shirting (Paul Smith too); Dries Van Noten heralded the return of the Pete Doherty skinny tie; Dolce and Gabbana tucked theirs into high-waisted trousers (a mood); Moschino went hell for pattern-slashing while Canali served prep school pastels. But it was MSGM who really pushed for the neck tie, putting models in not just one, but two of the formalwear staples.
You've probably seen the pictures of Ryan Gosling shooting Barbie: The Movie (if you haven't where have you been?), stomping around Los Angeles in matchy-matchy double denim. Well, that's about to be all of us if the men's shows were anything to go by. Doubled-up (and even tripled) denim bottoms and tops were all the rage in the collections, with Glenn Martens' Y/Project presenting rinse-washed ponchos under long-line denim trenches and worn with jeans, Prada serving tucked in Western-style shirts into straight-cut jeans and Givenchy pushing sleeveless vests and ripped denim bottoms.
Elsewhere Craig Green revealed bib-like denim vests and billowing jeans and MSGM went big on tie-dye denim. Casablanca and Moschino also showed Buffalo Bill style aplenty, with denim chaps and jeans hoisted with Western belts.
Oh the mighty crop top. Once solely worn by the likes of y2k icons Christina Aguilera, Britney Spears and Dennis Rodman, the cut-off has become a must-have in menswear. Justin Bieber loves them, as does Evan Mock, but so do the world's biggest designers.
Case in point: MSGM was all about cut-off shirting in June, while peak prepster brand Thom Browne pushed for the same. Alled Martinez, the super sexy Spanish label, said yes to pant-flashing tees, as did Mowalola and Celine, while at Wooyoungmi broken suits were given a sexed-up edge by way of sheer and cropped T-shirts.
Magenta, lilac, mauve and juniper: the men's collections were painted every hue of purple. Saint Laurent's all-black collection was interrupted by a single magenta belted jacket, Louis Vuitton proposed the wear of boxy deep mauve monogrammed two-pieces, while Georgio Armani wants you to play around with hues (juniper and Iris), as well as textures (silk, satin and velvet). Elsewhere Kenzo's all about contrasting stripes in jam and violet, while Canali wants you to wear suiting in blush lavender.
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Ah, the V-neck! It runs the risk of being stuffy, or something your old man would wear, but now it's a high fashion favourite. The V-neck has many advantages over its crew neck cousins. It makes wearing a T-shirt under your jumper look intentional rather than accidental and when worn with a suit, its cut-out shape just so happens to work with the shirt-and-tie combination.
Loewe's about the slouchy fit of an oversized V, Ami has pushed for argyle knits worn under contrasting leathers and sweatpants and Dolce and Gabbana is all for see-through, sexy Vs. At Etro we saw the most chest-flashing V-necks of all the brands, while Saint Laurent's came in at a close second (necessary in the heat of the Moroccan desert where the show was held). Kenzo opted for V-neck sweater vests – bit of arm, a little chest – and Armani's were more office-appropriate, worn neatly under louche suiting.
Short shorts that sit just above the knee are no new thing. Donald Glover's rocking them all around New York City, while Elton John cemented himself as a style icon in them in the mid-Eighties. Well, what's different now? They're even shorter than before, that's what.
Prada's are the sort of thing you'd catch guys in at Berlin metroclub Berghain, Ami went for micro safari pants and Bianca Saunders presented geometric patterned shorties that fell mid-thigh. Emporio Armani's shorts were retro-inspired and the sort of thing you'd find David Beckham training in back in 1998, while Irish designer Robyn Lynch served spangly sunflower cut-offs. Wales Bonner's had a sporty heritage feel to them, and Tiger Of Sweden's were functional (black goes with everything, right?) and thigh muscle flaunting.
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